SADDLE MODIFICATIONS FOR PROPER FIT updated 12/3/03
I have 2 SR ENDURO saddles. One was made for my small mare many years ago. The other I purchased from a rider who had it made for a large wide backed Arab.
As my mare aged the saddle made for her would not fit as well. The 'used' one did not fit my gelding.
Rather then send them back to Steve Ray, I decided I would try to make them fit both horses.
This was a a bit of a tenuous project, since both these saddle new would be over $2000. A DO-IT-MYSELF saddle fit project with an expensive saddle may not be a wise choice. However both saddles were well used, with many miles, they did not look new.
I really like the design of the flexible fiberglass tree of the SR. They are light weight and will flex somewhat under the rider's and horse's movements.
I have spent many hours reading about saddle fit as well attending a number of saddle fit clinics. Most were based around the fitting methods of sight and feel. Some methods user solid forms like plaster molds to fit the saddle. Others used a means to mark the tight sports of the saddle with chalk powder. I tried these methods to determine where the saddles needed adjustments. No one method proved effective.I did some slight rigging modifications to get a better fit with independent front-back adjustable rigging straps. This worked better and I was getting a better fit. However the tell-tail signs of a poor fit were present with both saddles on the assigned horse.
I decide it was time to get into the guts of the saddle.
I also acquired the PORT LEWIS SADDLE FIT SYSTEM, THE IMPRESSION PAD. This is a pad with a putty dough material in a bladder. The method to show the fit, is to use this as a pad, no other pad is used. The horse is saddled and ridden for about an hour. When you remove the saddle the pad will show the impression left by the saddle. Poor fit is indicated by NO presence of putty under the tight sport. The pressure from the tight fit pressed out all the putty from the those areas.
These are the areas that must be removed OR the areas around these tight spots built up to provide a match of the saddle weight bearing surface to the form of the back.
I also use the EQUIMEASURE fitting system. This is a thin thermo plastic material that is heated in the oven and placed on the back of the horse. A mold is made of the horses back by working the soft warm blanket to the shape of the back. Once cooled it is rock hard and you have a good static representation of the back. This can be used to get a rough fit of the saddle.
The use of the impression pad provide the BEST means to get a proof of a perfect fit. I preferred this over the EQUIMEASURE.
I cut open the wool cover of the saddle and gutted all the packing down to the tree. I found a few screws studs in the tree that I ground off with a grinder. Since I was going to ride the tree as is with the IMP pad, I sure did not want these screws sticking into the pad or the back of my horse.
I also smoothed up some other rough high points that may cause point pressure.
One ride showed the fitting problem. I had two choices - remove some of the tree at the tight areas or build up the tree at low areas around the high point. I had to open the tree some for my gelding. The basic tree was too narrow. I used a wood file and rotary sander to take off some of the epoxy coated fiberglass. I made small adjustments. Using the pattern on the IMP pad to show me where to remove tree and where to add material. To add surface I choose to use closed neoprene rubber. I cut pieces and tack glued it in place.
I tacked the wool covering back in place and took a number of test rides. It took about 3 rides to get the fit close. There was some displacement of the putty but not down to flat out. There will always be some displacement since the saddle is bearing weight, but you want a pattern that shows a good distribution of the weight and no flat spots. That would be the excessive pressure points.
Once the saddle fit was close. I added dacron and soft thin foam - I actually used the saddle pad foam from the SKITO saddle pad 1/4 inch thick section. I built up the areas that were showing less pressure with more foam and dacron then the high pressure areas. I took about 3 test run with a slight adjustment between each one to get it as right as I could. The end results of the impression pad pattern shows a really good fit. Along with he way the horse travels. The best test is, the way they travel down hill. With a good fit the horse travels very free in he shoulders and will bring the back up into the saddle for a balanced frame going downhill.
I have both of these saddle fitting well. The horses show no back problems and move free.
The pictures at the below link show the saddle, the IMPRESSION pad, the EQUIMEASURE and the process I used for the fitting.
I provided some description of the saddle and the procedure I used. I added some pictures of the IMPRESSION PAD showing the Synergist fit on Omni. This saddle I will NOT rework, its for sale. Way to nice to rip apart. I wanted to show picture of a bad or poor tight fit. I have no pictures of the SR fit BEFORE the modifications. Pictures of a good fit are for my mare.
The saddles look rough, held together with carpet tacks and duct tape, but they work and fit the horses very well. Some day I may send them back for an official rework, but since they work well and I am riding both horses, I can deal with the cosmetic issues for now.
Pictures at link imageevent.com/vmaxept Saddle Modifications album